British Vogue’s upcoming February 2022 cover has sparked quite a bit of conversation since it was revealed on Friday (14th).

The cover, which hits newsstands today, features models Adut Akech, Amar Akway, Majesty Amare, Akon Changkou, Maty Fall, Janet Jumbo, Abény Nhial, Nyagua Ruea and Anok Yai. The nine women – who are of Ethiopian, Nigerian, Rwandan, Senegalese and South Sudanese origin – have walked the runway for some of the biggest fashion houses including Prada, Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga.

The models are styled by Samuel Ellis, and the piece is co-written by Funmi Fetto – the premise behind the shoot is to ‘celebrate the magic of a new generation of African supermodels’ – But we have always been here, and why is our melanin always presented as ‘magical’? A covert inferrance to our alternative spiritual practices, which is often negatively troped.

However, while many are celebrating the images as brilliant and even groundbreaking, many have questioned the artistic liberties taken by British Vogue editor-in-chief Edward Enninful.

Some have accused the Editor of ‘reverse bleaching’, owing to the deliberate lack of lighting, others posit that the absence of various skin tones and shades, leads to the models appearing as works of living art, sculptures, mannequins – which harks back to the fetishisation of dark skinned Black Women as ethereal, not real, and thus, less human?

Also, what’s with the dated wigs – not one model has a natural hairstyle? Moreover, why styled in all black clothing, no facial expressions, just blank stares and pensive postures?

Artist Akau Jambo’s comments have shocked a few, but I’m inclined to agree with her when she laments that the covers are ‘Black Skin Porn’.

I welcome your thoughts…

All Images: British Vogue