Usually held in May, the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute Gala, fashion’s most highly anticipated event took place on September 13th during New York Fashion Week. A night of opulence, glamour and of course, high fashion, the Gala is a fundraising benefit for the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. The event welcomes influential celebrities, creatives, and industry giants. But this year, we saw a few first-time attendees and some questionable TikTokers and Youtubers.

This year’s theme “In America: A Lexicon of Fashion” certainly ushered in a diversity of looks but failed to accommodate many American designers, and even less African American designers.

We know fashion is political – just think about how Melania Trump exited the White House clad in problematic designers earlier this year. The former First Lady left in a somber looking all black ensemble, with a Chanel jacket, Dolce & Gabbana dress, Christian Louboutin patent leather stilettos and a crocodile Hermès Birkin bag estimated to be worth over $70,000. Coco Chanel was a deeply controversial designer with ties to the Nazis and Dolce & Gabbana has been trying to rebrand with Black celebrities such as Normani, Megan Thee Stallion and Ciara with their fashion show in Venice, just last month.

Though the theme was broad, American designers were inadequately represented in a theme honoring them but instead, the European fashion houses took centre stage as usual. The usual Christian Dior, Givenchy, Valentino overshadowed Black American designers. Both Christian Dior and Givenchy are housed under LVMH and have the money to splurge on a few tables, it’s not the same for a lot of these Black American designers. In order to attend the gala, designers pay at least $275,000 for their tables. This ‘cash for access’ requirement, makes it difficult for Black designers to participate. It’s not a matter of talent or creativity, but capital and wealth.

To ensure greater representation, Formula One’s sole Black driver and seven-time world champion Lewis Hamilton bought a table for three Black designers – Theophilio, Kenneth Nicholson, and Jason Rembert of Aliétte – who were seated with other Black innovators including Zendaya’s stylist Law Roach, Alton Mason, Kehlani and athletes Miles Chamley-Watson and Sha’Carri Richardson. It’s believed an individual ticket for the Met Gala costs approximately $30,000 (£21,000). He told gala host Keke Palmer, “I’m really fortunate. Anna Wintour agreed to me hosting my table. I’ve brought four incredible, young, Black talented designers, and so we’ve got a great host of people tonight and it’s just about highlighting beauty and excellence and talent.”

The Met Gala presented the optimal opportunity to demonstrate greater diversity and inclusion, but I guess maintaining the status quo is more important than integrity and bucking convention.

Apart from Aurora James of Brother Vellies creating a gown with the words ‘tax the rich’ for Congresswoman AOC, I can’t help but wonder how many Black female designers were invited or even worn at the event. It would have been amazing to see the likes of Carly Cushnie who founded American fashion house Cushnie, Anifa Mvuemba of Hanifa, Fe Noel or Tracy Reese.

It’s fair to say there was a clear lack of artistic representation on the red carpet, notably looks created by Black designers like Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss, LaQuan Smith and Claude Kameni whose designs actually feature in the museum’s exhibition this year were absent. The Met Gala presented the optimal opportunity to demonstrate greater diversity and inclusion, but I guess maintaining the status quo was more important than integrity and bucking convention.

Keke Palmer was an incredible host, with her vibrant and infectious energy, she made everyone feel welcome and comfortable. However, with questions about gatekeeping American culture and “who gets to be an American” juxtaposed with this year’s theme seemed at odds to me. If you thought American exceptionalism had a day off, you thought wrong.

With that, let’s get into these looks! We saw old Hollywood glamour, burlesque inspirations, denim, and an ode to Black American streetwear. I would have appreciated a sprinkle of 1920’s Flapper dresses, some 60’s Black Pride and some 70’s disco funk.

Keke Palmer

Keke Palmer: Getty/Theo Wargo

For her first ever Met Gala appearance host Keke Palmer, embodied Diana Ross in a Sergio Hudson dress with her voluminous natural hair.

Anok Yai

Anok Yai: Getty/Dimitrios Kambouris

Discovered at Howard’s Homecoming in 2017, South Sudanese model Anok Yai channeled Old Hollywood glam, in a figure hugging Oscar de la Renta dress. Her outfit pays tribute to entertainer and civil rights activist, Josephine Baker. I was dazzled by her outfit and how she owned the night.

Lupita Nyong’o

Lupita Nyong’o: Getty/Theo Wargo

Our favourite Kenyan actress blew us away and took the theme of American fashion seriously with her dark wash denim Versace dress. Now we know denim isn’t originally American but it is definitely a staple in American fashion. Not only did her outfit blow us away but her hair too! Inspired by the works of Lorna Simpson, her hair was fluffy and was styled to imitate tulle, according to her hairstylist.

Ciara

Ciara: Getty/Mike Coppola

Ciara lit up the Met Gala with her bright green Peter Dundas dress, influenced by her husband, American footballer Russell Wilson – what’s more American than American football! She paid homage to Geoffrey Beene’s football jersey dresses from the 60s while sporting Russell’s championship ring.

Normani

Normani: Getty/Mike Coppola

When Normani walks into the room, she commands it. With her chartreuse regal Valentino gown, the ‘Wild Side’ singer entered her first of hopefully many Met Galas with her natural hair pulled back into a bun. She said to Keke “Yellow pops on dark skin. I feel regal. I feel like a queen” and she was right.

Rihanna

Rihanna: Getty Images

And of course, what’s a Met Gala without trendsetter Rihanna. Paying homage to Black American streetwear, she stunned the carpet (fashionably late) in  all-black ruffled Balenciaga overcoat. There weren’t many outfits paying homage to American streetwear but Rihanna said “streetwear is fashion” and she did that.

Some other notable mentions…

Tessa Thompson

Tessa Thompson in Iris Van Herpen. Getty Images

Regina King

Regina King wore a pinstriped dress and coat by Michael Kors. Getty Images

Alicia Keys

Alicia Keys dressed up a sheer shirt with a tulle skirt. Getty Images

Gabrielle Union Wade

Gabrielle Union wore Iris Van Herpen with Messika jewellery. Getty Images

Cynthia Erivo

Cynthia Erivo wore a white co-ord top and skirt for the event. Getty Images

Imaan Hammam

Imaan Hammam. The model wore a sheer star printed tulle dress, paired with Tiffany & Co jewellery. Getty Images

Taraji P. Henson

Taraji P. Henson wore a frosted silver and black jumpsuit by Moschino. Getty Images

Iman

Iman wore a custom outfit designed by Harris Reed and Dolce & Gabbana. Getty Images

Storm Reid

Storm Reid. The actress wore a pink and red ribbon gown by Prada. Getty Images

Jennifer Hudson

Jennifer Hudson wore a red gown by AZ Factory. Getty Images

Yara Shahidi

Yara Shahidi wore an embellished gown by Christian Dior and Cartier jewellery. Getty Images

Amanda Gorman

Amanda Gorman. The poet wore a royal blue asymmetric gown from Vera Wang with a book-shaped clutch bag. Getty Images

Written By: Bashirat Oladele – a freelance writer who enjoys writing about pop culture, entertainment, and politics. Her work has been featured in Teen Vogue, Stylist, Cosmopolitan and other publications.

Artwork By: @artbyfunmi